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Fresh Off the Boat.
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The three pair below are made from Desert Ironwood. A new development here is that I have applied a clear coat finish which is skin safe and also is a uv blocker. This protective coating will allow the grain of the wood to remain vibrant for many years, even under extreme conditions. I find that this coating makes even a perfectly sanded wood finish stand out much more by adding contrast to the deferent colors in the wood.
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This is the first pair to be made from Olivewood. This wood varies greatly in terms of its colors and grain patterns. There can be many milky white streaks to wavy lines of black. Each piece of Olivewood is so different from the next that when working with clients I provide images of the specific pieces I have in stock so that they can chose which they prefer.
While in the process of creating this pair, Rachel asked that I include her contact information on the inside of one of the temples. She mentioned how she sometimes misplaces her items very easily and so hoped that if she ever leaves these behind, somebody will see her information and return them. If you ever see this pair in a library or coffee shop in Boston, please follow the instructions.
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A few of the requirements for this pair were a wood that has a subtle grain pattern, more on the thin and small side of the scale and have a color that will eventually be dark brown. The wood that best fit for these requests was Che Chen. While the color may seem a medium brown in the image shown, after uv rays and oxidation reach the wood, the color will tarnish to a much darker brown.
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These spectacles are going back in time, where they came from. Let's just say these frames came from the city of Wells in Somerset, after the owner of the spectacles saved their pence for many a month just so they could do their job better, being a scribe's apprentice. The year is 1376, and if you go to Carnation, WA you will see Camlann, these spectacles and be taken back to a time when quality didn't have much of a definition. That is because good quality was at one point the standard. This pair is where spectacles were born.
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Wood grain is something to be cherished. I like to walk around, looking at trees and especially their burls and imagine what lives underneath that overcoat of bark. The other day in the woods I spotted a dying knotted elm and I was briefly tempted to cut the whole thing down just to see what everything looks like inside. I'm not a tree serial killer, but I can entertain these thoughts when thinking about trees and their veins.
Grain was a big consideration at the conception of this pair of spectacles. The client wanted to see the grain and veins of the wood, even going so far to want the little pitted and pocked marks that certain species of trees leave in their wood when they dry. So we decided that Che Chen would be a good option for this pair.
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For this pair, color tone was an important factor for the overall look. The wood is Osage Orange and there are small dots of brass inset throughout the frame. The tones in this frame were selected to match a color palette of the client's wardrobe. She likes warm tones, and it doesn't get much more warm than these spectacles.
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This pair of specs, Come On! Watch them on Raydio G of the Chicago group Hotstylz as they rip apart the red carpet at the BET Music Awards on Tuesday June 24; red carpet coverage starts live at 5p central. They are also nominated for "LOL: Best Comedic Video," and i swear, if Mariah Carey wins, there is a serious intellect problem going on here. With "Lookin Boy", Hotstylz is bringing back something I've heard all the way from Bo Diddley's beat in songs like "Say Man" all the way to suburban homeboys on the street doing a diss session about somebody's mom, which is pretty funny in its own right. And all the pop-culture reference, who couldn't laugh a little bit, well if you have ever watched tv anyway. But, I guess Mariah Carey is still pulling the same old sexy card after all these decades is pretty funny as well. So it might be a battle. (update: hotsylz won the bet lol award)
About the frames, the fronts are a mix of black and white vinyl records with a sheet of aluminum thrown in towards the front to give them a nice sparkle. The temples are made from lignum vitae with inlays of aluminum at the front and the wood also has cutouts to show a layer underneath of aluminum which was then backed by another layer of lignum vitae to cover up, that's a mouthful.
If you haven't heard Hotstylz at this point with their hit Lookin Boy, I think its pretty safe to say that you soon will. Now, I'm not the most up on current events going on with quickly spoken words (rap maybe?), but these guys made me crack up with all their pop-culture references and their other music that is a bit more raunchy than the quieted down commercial stuff. After making this pair for Raydio, I think I am their new biggest fan. Take a view below of Raydio G wearing his new spectacles in an interview from drjays.com
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This pair, made from lignum vitae in the "dadda" design, was constructed for a woman in Rio De Janeiro. The story goes that she was wearing them at work one day and the models decided to try them on which prompted a clothing designer to want to include them in the new spring/summer collection.
So they asked me to make three more pair, but this time with tinted lenses, wood sunglasses. The frames were well received and it may lead to a partnership between my spectacles and Maria Bonita. So next time you are in Brazil, take a gander in their boutiques and you may just see some of these beauties.
And a few images from the Maria Bonita's show during Sao Paolo Fashion Week on June 19th, 2008.
Here are more images of the runway show.
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Oh wait, did i mention that i can be hip as hell? Check out these frames on Jason Tyler, a great guy you will probably be able to see spinning records in your city till the wee hours of the morning. For this pair we started with two designs in mind, vintage ass Cazal's from the 80's and a pair that Elton John wore during the 70's. And to top it off, Jason wanted the frames to be constructed of white vinyl. Come on cool kids, you know you want a pair. Check out Jason Tyler's music here and here.
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For this pair, Corrado and I worked out a design based upon some shapes and styles that he previously wore and liked the look of. One enjoyable perk of working for Corrado was that he trusted me to pick out the wood selection for him. He basically just mentioned it was agreeable to go towards the wild side. So with his trust in mind, I decided that he would enjoy desert ironwood fronts with ebony branches that have an inlays of ironwood to match up at the fronts. And sure enough, he told me that he is very pleased with the results. If into jazz and in Italy, it is a must that you check out Corrado's festival, the Novara Jazz Festival, here or here.
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Rob likes Trevor Horn from the Buggles and also his glasses. Rob knew exactly what design he wanted: he told me, "I want the same exact pair of frames that Trevor Horn wore back in the day." So after a little research and finding some white plastic to construct this pair, we were well on the way to revive the look of the Buggles. Just don't confuse Rob with Trevor if you ever see him playing music somewhere. Then I have a new option of designing, all that would have to be said is, "Make me some Fonda Specs from Easy Rider," and it would be done from there. Tell me your favorite iconic frames and I will replicate them for you.
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For this pair we started with the "blockhead" design and after a few rounds of design proofs, ended with the same basic shape but with very different inlays and a more rounded look compared to the rigid edges of the blockhead. The main part of the frame is constructed from lignum vitae and there are inlays of ebony, amboyna burl and desert ironwood. And to the Chicago folk out there, you can tune into his radio show Hump Day Dance Party on WLUW wednesdays 8-10p for some good listening or catch him when he plays an event near you. More info here.
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This pair is part of a portrait trade with Chicago artist Damien James. When Damien initially contacted me for the trade and I first saw his art, it was already done at that moment. He wanted two small pieces of vinyl inlaid into the temples. I can't wait to see what he comes up with for the portrait. Check out his work here.
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Two pair here, one for distance and one for close up, both for the same client. The pair on the left sports an asymmetrical bridge and is made from Tulipwood. The other pair, made from Bloodwood, has small steel dots set throughout the wood to mimic a pattern of a star-scape in the sky of the country. A first time for Bloodwood and its inner glow makes me want to soon use it again.
Here is a bit of video to show the effects of the Starry Sky specs.
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The second portrait trade has been made. This one comes from Son Nguyen of San Jose. When Son offered the trade of his custom lego portraiture, I just couldn't pass up on this one. He made it huge too and so I made sure that everybody who enters my house will be greeted by my mug in legos. Son has some of his other work to look at here.
For Son's specs, he decided that he wanted the edges to be a bit more on the square side rather than slightly rounded which turned out well. And this is the first time I've used Panga Panga as a material and am very pleased with the resulting grain and look.
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This pair is made from zircote. And there was a standard for wood specs set before me when making these as Petr has been wearing assorted wood frames for at least 10 years.
There is a new first that came with this pair and it's in the lenses. Petr wanted to have progressive bifocals (without the line) and I have heard of horror stories of them not working with peoples eyes if the lenses are off slightly. We went ahead and put progressives in and Petr sees excellently out of them. There is an extra step involved with these lenses as I had to send Petr the unfinished frames and he took them to an eye doc to get a seg height measurement so that the lenses and frames matched with his eyes. I just hope when I grow up I can rock the wood spectacles as well as Petr now does.
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A Sesame Street game for you using the two specs below. I suggest clicking the "PLAY" button which will open the song for you in another window while you are guessing away at the game.
Or if you are more literary minded, just skip the music all together and enjoy the lyrics.
"One of these things is not like the others,
One of these things just doesn't belong,
Can you tell which thing is not like the others
By the time I finish my song?
Did you guess which thing was not like the others?
Did you guess which thing just doesn't belong?
If you guessed this one is not like the others,
Then you're absolutely...right!"
If you guessed that the inlays were changed, you are absolutely right. Don't ask me how I did it, but by slowly eating away at the original turquoise inlays (right), I was able to swap them for ebony inlays (left) at the wishes of a client. I was a bit nervous at the start of this operation as I wasn't sure if it would come out nice, but like most other daunting tasks I encounter, it seems to work well by pretending I can do them. And the results, in this case anyways, turned out just right.
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Here are a couple more pair made from Desert Ironwood that really show the variation and depth of its grain structure.
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Another pair made in a style I have done before but this time with Desert Ironwood. The more I work with this material, the more I find that it is certainly one of my favorites. It is so densely structured that its finish is almost as seamless as a solid piece of steel, or iron. The grain characteristics of ironwood are also very contrasty, leaving many bright tones of gold all the way to the very deep blacks swirling throughout. When viewed in the sunlight the grain really pops out well like an optical illusion.
Another great fact about this material is that it can only be harvested from naturally dead logs common to certain deserts of Arizona and Utah, into Mexico as well. But the point being that no trees are being cut down to produce this material, only gathered dead logs that have been baking in the sun for most likely over one hundred years.
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Professor Ray Fisman's Al Jazeera appearance, speaking about relationships, wearing Urban Spectacles.
His second pair, coming soon, really it is!
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Aaron Seckman moved from Chicago to Brooklyn a few months ago, but before he did, he worked tirelessly to finish this portrait of me. I know he spent much over 50 hours to complete this painting and I also feel that anyone who views this in person will be able to comprehend his quest for a pure and intricate portrayal of the figure. His work here has already blown away many of the visitors to my house and I'm sure it will continue to do so. Thank you Aaron, as I am completely honored to own a piece, or two, of your work. To anyone in the NYC area, if you would like a truly well painted portrait or just would like to speak with Aaron about his work, please contact him and I could promise that you will not be disappointed. Though, don't expect to get by with him painting from a photo as he prefers to paint the way his eyes see, with all the depths of you sitting in front of him.
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This pair was made as a sample for a professor at Harvard Business School. He wanted a pair that is very similar to his Mikli's and since i had not yet made a 1/2 frame style, I wanted to try it out before confirming with him that is would work. And the results proved well, it can be done. So after sending Prof. Gavetti the sample pair for his approval, we went ahead and made him a pair in this style (which will soon be appearing). This style was a challenge to think through, but I am very glad it was proposed as it now expands the collection into a whole new realm.
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I'm big in Taiwan! Well with the owner of Hot Ice Optical anyways. Originally he asked if he could carry my frames in his shop, but not being a machine and all, I can't really offer wholesale prices at this point. But it is possible that machines are in the horizon, maybe. Regardless, he wanted a pair for himself made from some Pink Floyd vinyl, so now there is a pair out there that can be called Tommy.
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A Bit of the Ole Compare and Contrast.
or
Ideas Are Made to be Stolen.
The pair on the bottom are mine. The pair on the top were seen in the September 16 issue of New York Times' T Magazine and will be sold at Barney's eventually. The designer behind this deal is Number (N)ine’s Takahiro Miyashita. My design on the bottom was seen all over New York in Absolute Magazine's September '07 issue, released somewhere around August 15th.
Wait a second. Something fishy's going on here.
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A first time for this wood, desert ironwood burl. I am blown away with the distinct swirls of color variations this burl wood has to offer, and its grain structure is so tight that its finish resembles a flawless sheet of glass. I will look forward to offering this wood as a highly recommended choice from here out.
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This pair of record specs was made using Stxy's "Paradise Theater" album which has a hologram imprinted in the grooves of the record. If you catch the perfect glimpse of light, you will see the psychedelic colors swirling around the frames. totally trippy. This record was donated from Karen and Nick's collection, Karen being the lady who had a pair made from splat wax and neon and glow in the dark records. Thanks.
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If you live in New York or anywhere else where Absolute Magazine is distributed, you will see a somewhat image of the following three pair of specs. I've made the first pair with turquoise inlays my regular wear pair.
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For his second pair, his first being record specs from Lenny Dee and Hawaiian music albums, Nicolas decided to go wood. While it seems his main instrument is the theremin, he also plays the ukulele and is very into the tiki theme. His uke, seen below, is made from curly koa.
Knowing Nicolas' interest in such culture, my mind immediately sprung into offering the material option of Hawaiian curly koa, and only later did i find out that he has a few vintage ukuleles made from koa. He agreed and we constructed him a pair from the wood. He liked the Dadda style, but after seeing it on a digital composition that i sent to him, he requested that it be a bit smaller than the original design, and for his facial features I completely agreed, so it was scaled down a bit. The results...
This was actually my first time using curly koa and its now one of my favorite woods. If you remember those baseball cards (and were a kid in the 80's like me) that had two pictures in them depending on the way you moved the card back and forth, that is what this wood does due to its figured structure. Very wavy and optically illusionary.
Let's not forget the tiki motif at the end of the temples.
And I must give credit to Nicolas for making a pair of specs from a material I have yet to explore. They are Paper Specs. He made these from cutting out the proof design in .pdf form that I sent him. Tres bien, c'est magnifique.
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Here we have two pair of specs, or would that be one pair of specs, anyways one for nearsided and the other for farsighted, both replicated in the same design, except the temples. Living in the Chicagoland area, Matthew was able to come to my home and studio for a personal measuring session. His biggest qualm with all the eyewear he has worn previously was that they did not fit him properly. He has a very small nose bridge and his ears are a touch more forward that what the common denominator of eyewear manufacturers construct for (and actually we learned on his second visit to pick up his frames that one of his ears is a millimeter or two higher than the other, a problem easily fixed in seconds). So now Matthew is finally able to wear spectacles that actually fit him, and not some computer generated model of the average human. Let us not allow anyone, especially the eyewear industry, place us under the label of "normal", we've all got funked up heads, let our eyewear reflect that, sorry a bit preachy, hallelujah.
And not only did Matthew and I discuss eyewear for a bit at my place, we had many great conversations over bowls of pho on Argyle St. When is the last time Mikli took you out for good food and hopefully good discussion. Thanks again Matthew.
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These beergoggles were really tasty, errr, pleasant to construct. Using Stone Brewing Company's Arrogant Bastard Ale and Rogue's Dead Guy Ale, there is a nice theme of devil and skeleton running through the imagery. How better to show your man on his 40th that there is still plenty of time to live. Beergoggles for a man's 40th birthday, a second now; seems a trend is ruing (speaking of rue, i happen to make the best biscuits and gravy i've ever tried and i always try when the opportunity is there. take me up on the offer if you are a b&g aficionado. your buds will thank you for it). Happy birthday and thanks for the excellent ale recommendations. Cheers.
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For this pair, Tom sent me an old pair of frames that he has worn for many years and told me to use those as the basis for the design and measurements. He also wanted to add stone inlays for which he chose jagged slate, as if it had been lodged directly into the wood. This would seem to fit for one like Tom whom I believe is into the more rugged/extreme sorts of sports, why wouldn't one be when residing in Calgary. And too, he has his own clothing line based around such ideas which you can browse here.
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Here is another pair to be found floating around in Chicago. Going for a more symmetrical balance, the bridge has an intricate detail while not being too out there. I chose the layout of the wood grain to work in the symmetrical realm, notice how the wood flows equally from the bridge outward. And Marc, the frame's owner, has asked that I patina the steel rivets so as they blend in more with the wood and i will be working with acids to do so. I suppose that is a new option, to have the rivets in a natural steel state or to apply a patina of a range of colors.
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This pair was made for The Fader magazine. They will be taking some images and may have a little article for them in next months issue, or perhaps the one after that, not too sure how magazines work. They are in the style of the "dadda" design and are made from bocote. Notice the nice swirls to be found in this wood.
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